Coco Chanel

Fashion graphic designer. Born on August 19, 1883, in Saumur, France. With her trademark suits and footling black sterilisees, Coco Chanel created clock periodless designs that atomic number 18 still popular today. She herself became a untold(prenominal)(prenominal) revered style icon hold up for her simple yet sophisticated outfits polar with great accessories, such as whatsoever(prenominal) strands of pearls. As Chanel at unity time utter,luxury moldiness be comfort fitted, otherwise it is non luxury. Her aboriginal geezerhood, however, were anything yet glamorous. After her mothers death, Chanel was put in an orphan geezerhood by her mother who worked as a peddler.She was brocaded by nuns who taught her how to sewa adroitness that would lead to her lifes work. Her surname came from a nonher rail elan line entirely. During her brief life history as a prateer, Chanel performed in clubs in Vichy and Moulins where she was called Coco. somewhat say that t he name watch overs from superstar of the songs she used to sing, and Chanel herself state that it was a truncated version of cocotte, the cut word for unbroken adult distaff, according to an article in The Atlantic. roughly the era of 20, Chanel became involved with Etienne Balsan who offered to help her scram a millinery business in capital of France.She soon left him for ace of his regular(a) wealthier fri curios, Arthur Boy Capel. Both work force were slavish in Chanels front nigh ex countive style venture. Opening her graduation shop on capital of Frances Rue Cambon in 1910, Chanel bringed out selling hats. She posterior added stores in Deauville and Biarritz and began making clothes. Her moolahle taste of habilitate success came from a dress she subscribe to out of an old jersey on a chilly day. In re lay outee to the many so acer a brusque who asked most where she got the dress, she offered to level offfall in matchless for them. My fortune is built on that old jersey that Id put on because it was cold in Deauville, she once told author Paul Morand.In the mid-twenties, Chanel took her thriving business to rude(a) heights. She launched her commencement perfume, Chanel No. 5, which was the first to feature a designers name. Perfume is the unseen, unforgett satisfactory, final accessory of appearance. . . . that heralds your arrival and pro yearns your departure, Chanel once explained. In 1925, she introduced the now legendary Chanel suit with collarless jacket and substantially-fitted skirt. Her designs were revolutionary for the time get ele handsts of work forces wear and stress comfort over the constraints of thusly-popular trends.She helped women say good-by to the days of cor particularizes and other confining garments. another(prenominal) 1920s revolutionary design was Chanels move-ranking black dress. She took a illusion once associated with mourning and showed just how cleverness it could be for blu shingwear. In addition to style, Chanel was a popular figure in the capital of France literary and artistic worlds. She designed costumes for the Ballets Russes and for jean Cocteaus play Orphee, and counted Cocteau and artist Pablo Picasso among her friends. For a time, Chanel had a relationship with composer Igor Stravinsky. other exhortty romance for Chanel began in the 1920s.She met the affluent duke of Westminster on board his yacht around 1923, and the twain started a disco biscuits-long relationship. In resolution to his marri ripen proposal, she reportedly verbalize There have been some(prenominal)(prenominal)(prenominal)(prenominal)(prenominal)(prenominal)(prenominal) Duchesses of Westminster hardly there is only adept Chanel The international scotch depression of the thirty-something had a negative impact on her lodge, but it was the outbreak of foundation struggle II that led Chanel to keep out her business. She open fire her workers and shut agglom erate her shops. During the German art of France, Chanel got involved with a German armed forces officer, Hans Gunther von Dinckl geezerhood.She got special permission to plenteous point in her flatbed at the Hotel Ritz. After the con 10d ended, Chanel was interrogated by her relationship with von Dincklage, but she was not charged as a col boilator. whatever have windered whether friend Winston Churchill worked behind the convulsions on Chanels behalf. While not formally charged, Chanel suffered in the court of customary opinion. button up to still viewed her relationship with a national socialist officer as a perfidy of her awk contendd. Chanel left capital of France, spending some days in Switzerland in a crystallize of exile. She overly lived at her country place in Roquebrune for a time.At the age of 70, Chanel do a triumphant retort to the mien world. She first have scathing reviews from critics, but her feminine and easy-fitting designs soon won over shoppers around the world. In 1969, Chanels fascinating life story became the priming for the Broad commission musical Coco starring Katharine Hepburn as the legendary designer. Alan Jay Lerner wrote the book and lyrics for the shows song while Andre Previn composed the music. Cecil Beaton handled the specialise and costume design for the production. The show reliable seven Tony Award nominations, and Beaton won for opera hat Costume Design and Rene Auberjonois for outmatch have Actor.Coco Chanel died on January 10, 1971, at her flat tire in the Hotel Ritz. She never matrimonial, having once tell I never wanted to contract more heavily on a man than a bird. Hundreds crowded unneurotic at the Church of the Madeleine to bid leave to the forge icon. In tribute, many of the mourners wore Chanel suits. A particular more than a go by and by her death, designer Karl Lagerfeld took the reins at her residential district to continue the Chanel legacy. Today her name callin gake association continues to amplify and is believed to generate hundreds of millions in sales apiece year.In addition to the longevity of her designs, Chanels life story continues to captivate tidy sums attention. There have been some(prenominal) biographies of the hammer revolutionary, including Chanel and Her founding (2005) written by her friend Edmonde Charles-Roux. In the recent video recording set set biopic, Coco Chanel (2008), Shirley MacLaine starred as the celebrated designer around the time of her 1954 locomote resurrection. The actress told WWD that she had long been inte rested in contend Chanel. Whats wonderful about her is shes not a straightforward, easy fair sex to lowstand. Coco ChanelFashion designer. Born on August 19, 1883, in Saumur, France. With her trademark suits and little black dresses, Coco Chanel created timeless designs that ar still popular today. She herself became a truly ofttimes revered style icon cognize for her simple yet sop histicated outfits mated with great accessories, such as several strands of pearls. As Chanel once say,luxury moldiness be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury. Her primeval historic period, however, were anything but glamorous. After her mothers death, Chanel was put in an orphanage by her father who worked as a peddler.She was brocaded by nuns who taught her how to sewa cleverness that would lead to her lifes work. Her last name came from another concern entirely. During her brief course as a singer, Chanel performed in clubs in Vichy and Moulins where she was called Coco. approximately say that the name essentialers from unrivaled of the songs she used to sing, and Chanel herself say that it was a thinned version of cocotte, the cut word for unbroken muliebrity, according to an article in The Atlantic. somewhat the age of 20, Chanel became involved with Etienne Balsan who offered to help her start a millinery business in Paris.She soon left him for one of hi s even wealthier friends, Arthur Boy Capel. Both men were submissive in Chanels first contrive venture. Opening her first shop on Pariss Rue Cambon in 1910, Chanel started out selling hats. She later added stores in Deauville and Biarritz and began making clothes. Her first taste of attire success came from a dress she fashion out of an old jersey on a chilly day. In response to the many plenty who asked about where she got the dress, she offered to get down one for them. My fortune is built on that old jersey that Id put on because it was cold in Deauville, she once told author Paul Morand.In the 1920s, Chanel took her thriving business to new heights. She launched her first perfume, Chanel No. 5, which was the first to feature a designers name. Perfume is the unseen, unforgettable, supreme accessory of fashion. . . . that heralds your arrival and prolongs your departure, Chanel once explained. In 1925, she introduced the now legendary Chanel suit with collarless jacket and well-fitted skirt. Her designs were revolutionary for the time borrow elements of mens wear and punctuate comfort over the constraints of then-popular fashions.She helped women say pass to the days of corsets and other confining garments. some other 1920s revolutionary design was Chanels little black dress. She took a variety once associated with mourning and showed just how smart it could be for eveningwear. In addition to fashion, Chanel was a popular figure in the Paris literary and artistic worlds. She designed costumes for the Ballets Russes and for denim Cocteaus play Orphee, and counted Cocteau and artist Pablo Picasso among her friends. For a time, Chanel had a relationship with composer Igor Stravinsky. Another crucial romance for Chanel began in the 1920s.She met the wealthy duke of Westminster on base his yacht around 1923, and the devil started a disco biscuits-long relationship. In response to his marriage proposal, she reportedly said There have been several Duchesses of Westminsterbut there is only one Chanel The international economic depression of the thirty-something had a negative impact on her caller-out, but it was the outbreak of World war II that led Chanel to close her business. She blast her workers and shut down her shops. During the German occupation of France, Chanel got involved with a German soldiers officer, Hans Gunther von Dincklage.She got special permission to stay in her apart(predicate)ment at the Hotel Ritz. After the war ended, Chanel was interrogated by her relationship with von Dincklage, but she was not charged as a collaborator. virtually have wondered whether friend Winston Churchill worked behind the scenes on Chanels behalf. While not formally charged, Chanel suffered in the court of public opinion. several(prenominal) still viewed her relationship with a national socialist officer as a t author of her country. Chanel left Paris, spending some days in Switzerland in a sift of exile. She also lived at her country place in Roquebrune for a time.At the age of 70, Chanel made a triumphant cede to the fashion world. She first true scathing reviews from critics, but her feminine and easy-fitting designs soon won over shoppers around the world. In 1969, Chanels fascinating life story became the dry land for the Broadway musical Coco starring Katharine Hepburn as the legendary designer. Alan Jay Lerner wrote the book and lyrics for the shows song while Andre Previn composed the music. Cecil Beaton handled the set and costume design for the production. The show received seven Tony Award nominations, and Beaton won for opera hat Costume Design and Rene Auberjonois for Best feature Actor.Coco Chanel died on January 10, 1971, at her apartment in the Hotel Ritz. She never married, having once said I never wanted to debate more heavily on a man than a bird. Hundreds crowded together at the Church of the Madeleine to bid valediction to the fashion icon. In tribute, many of the mourners wore Chanel suits. A little more than a decade subsequently her death, designer Karl Lagerfeld took the reins at her company to continue the Chanel legacy. Today her namesake company continues to din and is believed to generate hundreds of millions in sales severally year.In addition to the longevity of her designs, Chanels life story continues to captivate populations attention. There have been several biographies of the fashion revolutionary, including Chanel and Her World (2005) written by her friend Edmonde Charles-Roux. In the recent television biopic, Coco Chanel (2008), Shirley MacLaine starred as the famed designer around the time of her 1954 race resurrection. The actress told WWD that she had long been interested in performing Chanel. Whats wonderful about her is shes not a straightforward, easy womanhood to understand. Coco ChanelFinal Research physical composition May 3, 2012 Fashion Leader, national socialist Informant, autocratic Liar Coco Chanel (1918-1945) Agent F-7124, cypher name Westminster. To those of you who were not involved with German Military Intelligence during World fight II, you may know Agent F-7124 as Coco Chanel. Chanel has been one of the top names in high end fashion for almost one hundred age but the woman behind the smirch has a shocking chivalric that would illuminate any customer think twice before a purchase. Chanel herself once said during the German Occupation of France, For a woman lese majesty has no senseone cannot betray ones passions1. Chanel held this didactics true through three ad hominem business with national socialist officers during World struggle II, an subroutine with a French textile successor who introduced her to an English aristocrat who conveniently funded her first two boutiques in Paris2. In short, Chanel slept her way to the top of the fashion industry. Nonetheless, in 1926 the October cut back of American Vogue Magazine assign Chanel with standardizing fashio n in a supply under her signature black dress, present is a Ford signed Chanelthe wearing app atomic number 18l that all the world will wear. 3 And they did by 1935 Chanel was selling 28,000 designs worldwide. Coco Chanel was natural Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel in 1883 in Paris, France and was the second fry to an unwed mother. Years later her p atomic number 18nts would marry and have five more children. When Chanel was 12 eld old her mother died and her father took Chanel and her six siblings to a convent for orphans where nuns would raise them until they r separatelyed age 18. At the convent Chanel learned to sew and was able to find work as a seamstress when she left. Living on her own, Chanel started to sing in a cabaret where she choose the stage name Coco.Military officers and upper single out members of society frequented the cabaret and Chanel met textile heir Etienne Balsan. Balsan introduced her to Captain Arthur Capel Capel would buy her an apartment in Paris and f inance her first two boutiques. Chanel began by designing hats, then womens wear, and eventually perfume. 5 As Chanel made her way into the upper class she much fabricated her background to hide that she came from such humble beginnings. Chanel has stated in some interviews that she was an only child and has never publicly acknowledged that she was raise in an orphanage.Author Louise de Vilmorin once suggested to Chanel that she see a psychiatrist about the constant need for fabrication. Chanel replied, I, who never told the honor to my priest? 6 There is no doubt that Chanel is recognized as an innovator of womens fashion during the 1920s. Women cut their haircloth and stepped out of their corsets. They wore clothes that gave them a waif- standardised silhouette shape, which was a stark contrast to the curvy, enate shape previously connected with femininity. Women also stopped protecting their skin from sunniness and began to tan.The changes in womens fashion were said to ma ke women feel liberated and in charge of their own fate, but whether fashion had the readiness to in law liberate women is questionable. historian Mary Louise Roberts wrote that fashion was a extremely charged issue in the premature 1920s. E rattling aspect of female dress had not only changed but come mirror opposite of what it had been in 1900. 7 This new style for women was criticized and opposed by traditional conservatives, Catholics, journalists, and most men.The critics felt alike(p) gender lines were get blurred and women were no longer interested in becoming mothers which they felt was the final goal for a woman. Roberts also wrote that this new fashion was not a marker of amicable change quite a a maker. 8 This exposition from Roberts is very common among historians on fashion in the 1920s. Elsa Herrmann wrote that women were finally finding amount in their life, Women were making goals and this period arouse them from their lethargy and laid upon them the resp onsibility for their own fate. 9 Feminist historians Caroline Evans and Minna Thornton write that fashion during this time offered women the fortune to express themselves in a passive manner. The women suggest that it was a way for women to step into the fine liberal arts that have been dominated by men for years. Fashion was also a way for women to use their creativity and rick businesswomen. 10 Francois Baudot highlights the success of Chanels fashion life story in connection with the feeling of womens liberation Thousands of women now began to realize that vile chic could be the answer to affectionate snobbery.The Chanel look, with its lines reduced to their simplest expression, shows that how clothes are drawn is much more principal(prenominal) than what is irresolute that a good line is outlay more than a pretty buttock that well-dressed is not the same as dressy, and that the whirligig of social cachet was to be proletarian. 11 Baudot is suggesting that this fashion movement started by Chanel actually broke down the class barriers that had been in place in France for centuries. Should Coco Chanel be lendn sole credit for this all-powerful new image of women? 12 We moldinessiness ask ourselves what other factors diverged a social change this large?It could be said that World War I had an wondrous impact on this change in womens fashion and their feeling of liberation. throughout this paper I will hold forth how World War I gave Chanel the luck to start her empire. I will then focus on how Chanel was able to stay an upper class, booming women despite her sermon of the people she sedulous, her anti-Semitism, and affairs with Nazi officers. To amply understand Chanels actions one must be briefed on the context of from each one one. During WWI men left their families and jobs to fight. Women had no selection but to provide for their families.The brutality of World War I made the chances of spouses haveing(a) very low. France lost 81,000 armed forces men during WWI. 13 Women in the workplace construct war goods and faced extremely pitiable conditions and were often killed themselves. 14 WWI broke down the gender barrier so that women like Chanel could make a name for themselves and express themselves more freely. Historians acknowledge the rise in consumer culture and credit Chanel as the female liberator and this image was created of Chanel as an icon for women comprehend the new look. While Chanel was talented, she was also brazen-faced to use herself to get ahead.Without her two affairs she would not have had the property to launch her notice. For young women yearning to be designers or businesswomen perhaps Chanels way of achieving distinction is not the most ethical. For some, Chanel could send the pass along to her peers during this time that sleeping with men for money is how you deform successful and internationally cognize. As an older women describing her beginnings, Coco Chanel said, I was ab le to start a high end fashion shop because two gentlemen were outbidding each other over my hot little body 15 The Interwar Period created a culture of consumerism.The economy was prosperous and ready to wear habiliment was new and very popular. Chanel would have had a harder time rebellion to the top of the fashion world without this economic boom from WWI. When Chanels designs were bought by the Parisian elite she was able to make personal connections to keep advancing herself and it benefitted her line of achievement. Towards the end of the 1920s her affair with the Duke of Westminster solidified Chanel into the British aristocracy. She became close with Winston Churchill and members of the royal family, which would help her out in the years to come.Together, Chanel and the Duke of Westminster were outspoken with their anti-Semitic views and homophobia. Chanels perfume line had been financed, marketed, and produced by two Jewish brothers. Chanel started a 17-year battle with the Wertheimer brothers to discover monetary control over the company for the sole reason being they were Jewish. 16 Once more, Chanel used her body to go and her blatant intolerance of Judaism and homosexuality is licence that Chanel was intolerant and yet was still in business. In 1936 French workers went on film for higher absorbs and the French labor unions met with management delegations.Chanel refused to pay any wage increases and other demands brought forth. She eventually realized her fall line would not be produced unless she gave in. Chanel had no respect for the seamstresses she employed even though Chanel was once in that position herself. She employed roughly 3,000 women where the working conditions and hours were strenuous and took a toll on them. Chanels interposition of the female workers she felt were beneath her is not often written about but it is outstanding to note that once Chanel had work one of the elite she wanted nobody to do with the lower class. Chanel offered no bare benefits or help to the women working for her afterwards agreements were met. 17 Three years later World War II began and Chanel unlikeable her shops because she felt that war was not a time for fashion. Some see this as retaliation for the labor strike years before. 18 Regardless, Chanels actions against the women she employed go against the idea of the liberated woman she is credit with originating. Now in the fashion industry for twenty years, Chanel had an empire and was an internationally cognise name.However, the general public at this time had almost no knowledge of where Chanel had come from and how she rose to success. This helped increase the idolatry and bewilderment women held for her. Chanel created a public persona that was idyllic. legal age of what Chanel told reporters was fabricated because Chanel was so ashamed of her background. 19 It is hard to say whether Chanels fans during this time would have persist ined as hard-core if her fu ll background was known. Looking back at the social classes in France during the 1920s and mid-thirties there was a strong shopping mall class.The middle class appeared in the other(a) 20th century and its members wanted a clear distinction between themselves and members of the lower working classes. 20 Chanels designs that each woman copied in the 20s had evolved into an exclusively high-end accruement much like Chanel herself. Chanel resided in the Hotel Ritz in Paris during World War II after the closing of her shops. France was now under German Occupation and German armament officers also resided at the Hotel Ritz. While the rest of France was strengthening their Resistance, Chanel was practically living with Nazi officers.The French Resistance amongst its citizens was huge and women were telephone exchange in it. This could potentially have been Chanels moment to earn her status as an icon for women. Female resisters could get aside with almost anything because the Nazis were so dismissive of females having power. These women were pure at falsifying documents and identities, decoding, and transporting paperwork and they risked everything to be apart of it. 21 Chanel took absolutely no part in the Resistance but rather had an affair with Officer Hans Gunther von Dincklage who was an operative in army experience. 2 There are several allegations that Chanel was a Nazi emissary. Chanel had become very connected in the past twenty-five years and saw herself as an asset to the Germans. There are choke records in French and British intelligence of Chanel with Nazi officers and their train schedules and dates. There is no actual proof of what Chanel did when she was a spy so she could not be convicted after her arrest in 1944. 23 Chanel handwrote a note to Churchill in 1944 explaining why it looked untrusting for Chanel and her friend Vera Lombardi to have such close connections with the Germans My Dear Winston,Excuse me to come & ask you in such mo ments like theseI had perceive from some time that Vera Lombardi was not very happily treated in Italy on account of her being English and married with an Italian officerYou know me well enough to understand that I did everything in my power to pull her out of that role which had indeed become tragic as the Fascists had simply locked her up in prisonI was obliged to address myself to somebody rather important to get her freed and to be allowed to bring her down here with ethat I succeeded placed me in a very difficult situation as her passport which is Italian has been stamped with a German visa and I understand quite well that it looks a bit suspectyou can well imagine my loved after years of occupation in France it has been my lot to encounter all kinds of people I would have pleasure to lambaste over all these things with you I remain always affectionately, Coco Chanel Perhaps Randolph could give me news of you. 24 Many Parisians postwar took Chanels actions as a flavor in the face to France and questioned Chanels homage to France.Throughout World War II Chanel did not partake in anything to do with fashion and is remembered in France as somewhat of a traitor. Chanel moved to Switzerland following the war and ten years later returned to the fashion scene where she was welcomed by the Americans, whom are now her loyal customers. 25 Chanel was able to stay at the top of the fashion industry for so long because she was solely in Paris until after World War II. The French sight is advert to understanding how a woman like Chanel could maintain success.The French have a harder time accept outside culture or influence because they want to keep France French. Since the French Revolution in 1789, nationalism has been important to the French people. The national motto of France is liberte, egalite, fraternite (liberty, equality, labor union/brotherhood). 26 Chanel was born in France and was easily accepted by the French community because in a way she could be seen as adding to the French culture. Her styles were created and manufactured in France by French people and this was most important to them.Her success after World War I boosted the morale of women and change magnitude consumerism throughout France. Eventually, Chanel put herself above France and her interest with the enemy in WWII ended her manage of success in the country. Another perspective of Chanels life and go to look for is that of American consumers. Americans during 1914 -1945 were not unaware of the brand and style of Chanel but it was not as common across the large country like it was in Europe. When the European press slammed Chanel in 1954 after her fashion show, she went to the join States one year later.The buyers in sensitive York were thrilled to have her comeback be in the States and alerted Life Magazine. Life did a four-page spread on the comeback of Chanel. 27 Chanels reputation with the Nazis did not succeed the journey across the Atlantic much t o her benefit. Since Chanel had always been private and untruthful in the press, the American citizens really did not know much about Chanel as a person and just had the image of her as a foreign high-powered successful designer. At this time Chanel was 71 years old.It is possible that her age was to her benefit concerning American acceptance. Chanels affairs when she was younger were not that important to Americans because they did not know the military officers she was involved with. News of her affairs with Nazi officers going beyond just a relationship broke out to the public in the 21st century long after Chanels death. Therefore, Americans had virtually no reason to not accept Chanel. In conclusion, the wild life that Coco Chanel created was what unploughed her career alive.The mysterious Frenchwoman caught the eyes of wealthy men who financed her career and gave her the opportunity to become a success. The booming economy and new culture of consumerism from WWI helped Chanel become a home plate name and power crime syndicate in France. Chanel had the ability to recreate herself at any opportunity she came across and she did. She could do this because she never told the truth to anyone. No one really knew Chanel until after she died. She told interviewers wrong birth dates and gave different accounts of how she was raised.She went from being an orphan to a member of the French elite then on to a British aristocrat. Her many affairs ranged from heirs to Dukes to Nazi officers and she was able to fit into each of them. shockingly enough, all these factors are apart of the reason Chanel had staying power. Her rich clients gave her access to wealthy men and vice versa. The connections Chanel made between 1918 and 1945 were key giving her a place in every part of society in Europe.After her Nazi affairs and losing her place in Paris, Chanel had one resource left to pester and that was the United States fashion scene. People in the United States were eager to have the designers comeback be on their soil. Once illustrious stars started wearing Chanel, the clothing was in high demand where it girdle today. No other woman but Chanel could live the life she did and get absent with being called an icon. I invented my life by taking for granted that everything I did not like,would have an opposite, which I would like, Coco Chanel. 28Coco ChanelFashion designer. Born on August 19, 1883, in Saumur, France. With her trademark suits and little black dresses, Coco Chanel created timeless designs that are still popular today. She herself became a much revered style icon known for her simple yet sophisticated outfits opposite with great accessories, such as several strands of pearls. As Chanel once said,luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury. Her beforehand(predicate) years, however, were anything but glamorous. After her mothers death, Chanel was put in an orphanage by her father who worked as a peddler.She was raised by nun s who taught her how to sewa acquisition that would lead to her lifes work. Her soubriquet came from another occupation entirely. During her brief career as a singer, Chanel performed in clubs in Vichy and Moulins where she was called Coco. Some say that the name comes from one of the songs she used to sing, and Chanel herself said that it was a truncate version of cocotte, the French word for unplowed woman, according to an article in The Atlantic. close to the age of 20, Chanel became involved with Etienne Balsan who offered to help her start a millinery business in Paris.She soon left him for one of his even wealthier friends, Arthur Boy Capel. Both men were instrumental in Chanels first fashion venture. Opening her first shop on Pariss Rue Cambon in 1910, Chanel started out selling hats. She later added stores in Deauville and Biarritz and began making clothes. Her first taste of clothing success came from a dress she fashioned out of an old jersey on a chilly day. In resp onse to the many people who asked about where she got the dress, she offered to make one for them. My fortune is built on that old jersey that Id put on because it was cold in Deauville, she once told author Paul Morand.In the 1920s, Chanel took her thriving business to new heights. She launched her first perfume, Chanel No. 5, which was the first to feature a designers name. Perfume is the unseen, unforgettable, ultimate accessory of fashion. . . . that heralds your arrival and prolongs your departure, Chanel once explained. In 1925, she introduced the now legendary Chanel suit with collarless jacket and well-fitted skirt. Her designs were revolutionary for the timeborrowing elements of mens wear and accentuate comfort over the constraints of then-popular fashions.She helped women say bye to the days of corsets and other confining garments. Another 1920s revolutionary design was Chanels little black dress. She took a alter once associated with mourning and showed just how chic i t could be for eveningwear. In addition to fashion, Chanel was a popular figure in the Paris literary and artistic worlds. She designed costumes for the Ballets Russes and for denim Cocteaus play Orphee, and counted Cocteau and artist Pablo Picasso among her friends. For a time, Chanel had a relationship with composer Igor Stravinsky. Another important romance for Chanel began in the 1920s.She met the wealthy duke of Westminster on base his yacht around 1923, and the two started a decades-long relationship. In response to his marriage proposal, she reportedly said There have been several Duchesses of Westminsterbut there is only one Chanel The international economic depression of the mid-thirties had a negative impact on her company, but it was the outbreak of World War II that led Chanel to close her business. She dismissed her workers and shut down her shops. During the German occupation of France, Chanel got involved with a German military officer, Hans Gunther von Dincklage.S he got special permission to stay in her apartment at the Hotel Ritz. After the war ended, Chanel was interrogated by her relationship with von Dincklage, but she was not charged as a collaborator. Some have wondered whether friend Winston Churchill worked behind the scenes on Chanels behalf. While not officially charged, Chanel suffered in the court of public opinion. Some still viewed her relationship with a Nazi officer as a betrayal of her country. Chanel left Paris, spending some years in Switzerland in a phase of exile. She also lived at her country house in Roquebrune for a time.At the age of 70, Chanel made a triumphant return to the fashion world. She first received scathing reviews from critics, but her feminine and easy-fitting designs soon won over shoppers around the world. In 1969, Chanels fascinating life story became the cornerstone for the Broadway musical Coco starring Katharine Hepburn as the legendary designer. Alan Jay Lerner wrote the book and lyrics for the shows song while Andre Previn composed the music. Cecil Beaton handled the set and costume design for the production. The show received seven Tony Award nominations, and Beaton won for Best Costume Design and Rene Auberjonois for Best feature Actor.Coco Chanel died on January 10, 1971, at her apartment in the Hotel Ritz. She never married, having once said I never wanted to weigh more heavily on a man than a bird. Hundreds crowded together at the Church of the Madeleine to bid word of farewell to the fashion icon. In tribute, many of the mourners wore Chanel suits. A little more than a decade after her death, designer Karl Lagerfeld took the reins at her company to continue the Chanel legacy. Today her namesake company continues to enlarge and is believed to generate hundreds of millions in sales each year.In addition to the longevity of her designs, Chanels life story continues to captivate peoples attention. There have been several biographies of the fashion revolutionary, inc luding Chanel and Her World (2005) written by her friend Edmonde Charles-Roux. In the recent television biopic, Coco Chanel (2008), Shirley MacLaine starred as the famous designer around the time of her 1954 career resurrection. The actress told WWD that she had long been interested in compete Chanel. Whats wonderful about her is shes not a straightforward, easy woman to understand.